Make Your Skincare Work for You
If you’ve had oily skin all your life, it’s hard to imagine looking at the mirror in the middle of the day and not seeing a shiny face.
Going out on a sunny day and not having to worry about your makeup or your complexion seems so farfetched.
You’ve probably tried different skincare and makeup throughout the years that aim to control oily skin, but none of them have worked perfectly.
At this point, it just seems like an impossible task.
However, it’s actually not. You just haven’t discovered the right products that work for your skin condition, sensitivity, and age; as well as the proper skincare routine that they will work well with.
Oily skin is difficult to control because it's something you were born with. It’s not impossible to rein in, but you’ll need to learn about your condition and expend effort in maintaining it.
Oily skin can also be triggered by a host of other things so it’s important to identify what these are in order to address it.
This detailed guide can help you find the right regimen and combination of products that will work to help you regulate excessive oily skin
The Cycle of Excessive Oily Skin and its Effects
BY SAMANTHA WELCH, ESTHETICIAN
Oily skin is the overproduction of sebum, especially in the T-zone area. It may be more prevalent in teenagers because of hormones, but it can affect people of all ages.[1]
The prevalent features of those with oily skin are large pores and acne breakouts. Poor skin elasticity and aging are linked to enlarged pores as well.[2]
Excessive production of sebum causes a lot of dermatological skin issues related to acne and seborrheic dermatitis, so controlling oil should be a very important part of your daily skin regimen.
The cycle of oily and acne-prone skin is:
- Greasy skin throughout the day
- Enlarged pores because it’s holding oil beyond their capacity[3]
- A build-up of dead skin, oil, and dirt that are likely to clog pores
- Acne, blackheads, and whiteheads as a result of clogged pores
- Acne scarring or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
This cycle will never end until you do something about one of the main causes–oily facial skin. With or without acne, having oily skin can have adverse social and psychological effects.[4] It makes you self-conscious, makes you feel embarrassed, and makes you high maintenance throughout the day in an effort to keep at bay.
To break the cycle of excessive oily skin, there are several effective strategies that I recommend to my patients:
- Choose the right skincare products. Look for non-comedogenic products that won't clog pores, and consider using a gentle exfoliating cleanser to help remove excess oil and dead skin cells.
- Use a lightweight moisturizer. While it may seem counterintuitive to moisturize oily skin, using a lightweight, non-greasy moisturizer can help to keep the skin hydrated and healthy without exacerbating oil production.
- Consider topical treatments. There are a variety of topical treatments available that can help to manage excessive oil production and prevent acne breakouts. Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide are both effective options that can be used as part of a daily skincare routine.
- Make lifestyle changes. Stress, poor diet, and lack of sleep can all contribute to excessive oil production and acne breakouts. Making healthy lifestyle changes, such as getting enough sleep, exercising regularly, and eating a balanced diet, can help improve your skin's health.
While excessive oily skin can be a frustrating and persistent problem, effective treatments and lifestyle changes can help break the cycle and manage this condition.
Finding Out What Triggers Excessive Oily Skin
Oily skin can have a lot of underlying causes. In order to find a solution, you’ll need to find out what these causes are so you’ll know how to correct it
Improper daily skin routine and regimen
One of the first steps in assessing your current skincare routine. If your face is starting to oil before you even put your makeup on, something is off with your skincare.
If you put on makeup and have a shiny face before you’re even out the door, it’s likely your makeup or both. Either of these means your skin reacts negatively to some of your products.
One of the keys to solving this is to observe a daily routine that specifically addresses oily skin, and combine it with products that react positively to your skin type.
The guide below covers the proper daily routine that should be observed if you have oily skin. Finding the right product is incredibly crucial, so there will be tips and techniques enclosed with each step as well.
Hormonal Imbalance
You can always have this tested but outside of that, one major indication is that it’s bundled up with other hormonal symptoms like PMS, irregular monthly cycles, acne around the jawline, etc.
If the cause is hormonal imbalance, there are oral and topical prescription medication on the market like Differin, Accutane, Retin A, Isotretinoin, and Tarozac that addresses these concerns.
These can be very effective but come with a host of side effects including extremely dry skin, severe depression, mood swings, etc. so this should really be your last resort.
Unhealthy Skin and Body
Another way to control excess oil naturally is by undergoing a complete skin program. These kinds of regimens are holistic, meaning they aim not just to band-aid one aspect or underlying cause, but to change your skincare, diet, and lifestyle to produce healthier skin from the inside.
This is the best and sure-fire way to control oily skin with minimal risk of mistakes (e.g. wrong product choice) and side effects (depression, etc. from medication).
It is also the first step in preventing premature skin aging and most importantly, releasing you from cosmetic dependency in the long run.
Recommended Acne Programs
If you're suffering from severe acne, it's best to undergo a program that will help you get to the root of the problem and address the causes.
- The Acne No More System by Mike Walden – Restores hormonal balance to achieve permanent clear skin for life.
- The “Trifecta Glow” System – A highly potent brightening treatment guaranteed to reduce the appearance of dark spots & acne scars within 4 weeks.
- La Roche-Posay – Effaclar Dermatological 3 Step Acne Treatment System
- Murad – Acne Control Kit – Breakout Skin Care Kit
- Mario Badescu – Acne Starter/Control/Repair Kit
- Dermalogica – Clear Start Breakout Clearing Kit
How to Control Oily Skin
Use the guide below to build and optimize your current skincare regimen. Remember to be consistent in your routine to achieve optimum results.
Use a gentle and non-irritating cleanser
Proper cleansing is crucial to prepping your skin for your skincare and cosmetics. Here are the key points to remember when choosing the right facial cleanser for you.
Any irritation will basically guarantee overproduction of oil for oily skin, and acne for acne-prone skin. Make sure to avoid products that are too harsh on your skin.
The perfect cleanser will remove sebum and dirt without leaving you with a feeling of tightness or dryness.[6] This means the skin’s natural barrier (natural fatty oils) is left intact, thus your skin will no longer need to overcompensate with excess oil.
Avoid bar soaps as much as possible. Some of the ingredients that make it solid can strip the skin of its natural oils and can cause irritations.
You will also need two different cleansers for different times of the year. The levels of oiliness have many biases, including seasonal variations.
During cold seasons, the skin is naturally drier so a gentle cleanser would be ideal. During warm months, sweat and dirt can accumulate faster and are harder to clean so a deep cleanser can help you better.
Related: The Best Face Washes & Cleansers for Oily Skin and Large Pores – Ultimate Guide & Review
Exfoliate to avoid clogged pores and buildup of dead skin
Exfoliation is one of the most important and most overlooked aspects of skincare, especially if you have oily skin. There tends to be a thicker amount of build-up on the surface of oily skin so you must find a way to gently remove this without irritating your skin. (I know I sound like a broken record at this point, but I cannot stress the importance of not irritating your skin at any point in your regimen.)
There are two types of exfoliation–chemical and mechanical:
2.1 Mechanical Exfoliation
Exfoliating brushes, cleansing pads, or microdermabrasion devices to manually remove dead skin cells on the surface.
If you find that this works for you, make sure that you only do this two to three times a week so you won’t stress the skin too much.
If you find this method too abrasive, however, chemical exfoliation may be a better alternative for you.
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2.2 Chemical Exfoliation
Uses Hydroxy acids (AHA, BHA) to gently dissolve the build-up of sebum and dead skin. This reduces the chances of clogged pores and eventually acne, as well as keeping your skin fresh and younger-looking.
You can choose a product that combines the two kinds if you have other skin issues beyond oily skin, e.g. rough skin, sun damage, etc.
2.2.1 Alpha Hydroxy Acids
AHAs (Glycolic, Lactic, Citric, Malic, and Tartaric Acids) dissolve dead skin cells on the upper layer of the skin. This accelerates the rate of skin turnover and prods the skin to produce collagen and hyaluronic acid.
These two elements are the keys to retaining moisture on the skin and keeping it supple and young. (That’s why they’re staples in anti-aging products.)
AHAs are water-soluble so it works only at the top layer of the skin. Incorporate if you have problems with sun damage and have resistant skin i.e. not sensitive.
Related: 8 Exceptional AHA Serums (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) for Clear & Radiant Skin
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2.2.2 Beta Hydroxy Acids
BHA’s (Salicylic Acid) does the same as above but is oil-soluble. This means it has the ability to seep into the pores and decongest deep-seated oil and dirt. It also has anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. BHA’s works amazingly for oily and acne-prone skin. This works well with sensitive skin and people of color.
You can include hydroxy acids in your daily regimen by incorporating BHA toners or serums.
You can also opt to do chemical peels once every two to three weeks.
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2.3 Chemical-Mechanical Combo Exfoliation
Various skincare products incorporate a combination of mechanical and chemical exfoliation techniques.
Examples include exfoliating scrubs with added AHAs or BHAs, masks combining physical particles with chemical ingredients, and dual-phase exfoliating toners featuring both mechanical and chemical components.
These dual-action approaches aim to provide thorough exfoliation, addressing both surface-level and deeper skin concerns.
You should follow product instructions to avoid overuse and potential irritation, and consulting with a dermatologist for personalized advice is recommended.
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Use a light, non-comedogenic moisturizer to hydrate your skin
You may feel like you might not need to moisturize if you have oily skin or be afraid that it’s going to exacerbate the issue.
Moisture has to do with keeping the skin hydrated. However, oil and water are not the same.
The oil on your skin can help seal the moisture in, but won’t replace it. And when the skin is dry, it will start producing more oil to compensate.
It’s completely possible for excess oily skin to be caused by dehydration.
Moisturizing is especially important as you grow older because the skin gradually loses its ability to naturally retain moisture.
The key is not to avoid moisturizing, but to find the right moisturizer for your skin type.
Avoid heavy creams and moisturizers with thick consistencies. Stick with lightweight, fragrance-free, and non-comedogenic moisturizers.
You will need also to use different types of moisturizers day and night. Day moisturizers have built-in sunscreen protection, and night moisturizers are loaded with hydrating and repairing ingredients to maximize skin healing while you sleep.
3.1 Day Moisturizer
Prolonged sun exposure without proper protection is the no. 1 accelerant of skin aging.[7] Sun protection is the single most important thing you can do to ensure great skin in the long run.
Using sunscreen is a MUST in not just preventing skin damage and all that comes with it, but skin cancer as well.
Use a light, non-comedogenic sunscreen with a minimum SPF of 30 to avoid breakouts and excess oily skin. This will ensure absorption without weighing down the skin.
Follow with a non comedogenic moisturizer and primer to refine your skin.
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3.2 Night Moisturizer
Use a hydrating cream rich in vitamins and minerals to replenish your skin while it repairs during your sleep.
The right moisturizer will have you waking up with your skin feeling plump and supple, without the excess oil.
Related: The Best Non Comedogenic Moisturizers for Acne-Prone Skin; The Best Non-Comedogenic Moisturizers for Oily Skin
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Incorporate Retinols into your nighttime routine
Retinols are a staple in acne management. The main reason for this is its ability to change the way your glands produce oil and the way that the pore gets blocked. This results in oil reduction and pore clarity.
Retinol is a well-established anti-aging ingredient as well known to tighten pores, reduce sun damage, expedite cell turnover, boost collagen production, and more. By incorporating this in your routine, you are not only treating your oily skin but you’re now also in the best anti-aging regime without even trying.
Using this as early as in your 20s is recommended in order to establish a preventive skincare routine before any onset signs of skin aging occurs.
Another benefit is that it can also address pigmentation, whether it be melasma or hyperpigmentation from acne scarring.
You can incorporate retinol as a serum or a night moisturizer.
Related: How to Get Rid of Hyperpigmentation
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Weekly Face Masks
Facial Masks have an array of properties that can hydrate the skin, eliminate bacteria, and absorb excess oils.
Look for charcoal or clay-based masks with bentonite, zinc, salicylic acid, niacinamide, and licorice. These can pull out deep-seated oils in minutes, leaving a matte finish.
Use it when you’re prepping for a big day or a night out.
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Prescription Isotretinoin
If all else fails, you can try prescription isotretinoin. Some brand names you might be familiar with, like Accutane.[8]
It WILL dry up your skin, excessively so in my experience that caught me quite unexpectedly. It’s mainly used to address acne, as oily skin is one of the heaviest triggers for it. As it’s classified as a drug, it also comes with a whole host of side effects. Personally, I’ve found these outweigh the benefits as I’ve managed to control my oily skin through the methods above.
The closest OTC alternative for isotretinoin you can find is Acnetame, which has worked for some folks in controlling oily skin.
Bonus: To Increase Product Absorption
For an extra push, you can pair this with devices that facilitate skin absorption:
- Ultrasonic Technology – helps ingredients penetrate the skin through a process called “sonophoresis”. These are micro-vibrations on the skin that create microscopic gaps in the skin to allow ingredients to penetrate deep. Tissues are also heated in the process. (e.g. DERMAFLASH DERMAPORE Device, Ultrasonic 2-in-1 Pore Extractor and Serum Infuser Tool)
- Iontophoresis – is performed using microcurrent machines that penetrate water-based products into the skin. This is an excellent method of driving serums or moisturizers to specifically target areas with hyperpigmentation. (e.g. NuFACE Legacy Trinity)
- LED Phototherapy – not only improves product absorption but also promotes skin regeneration and stimulates collagen formation in the skin. These are also used for skin rejuvenation. (e.g. NORLANYA LED Mask Face Phototherapy Facial Skin Care Máscara LED Light)
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Expected Results from Controlling Oily Skin
by SAMANTHA WELCH, ESTHETICIAN
- A decrease in oil and sebum levels
- Visible pore reduction
- Mattified and smoother skin
- Fewer bouts of blackheads, whiteheads, and acne
- Satisfaction and improved well-being (scientifically proven!)[5]
References:
- Sakuma T, H, Maibach H, I: Oily Skin: An Overview. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2012;25:227-235. doi: 10.1159/000338978
- Baumann, L. , Penfield, R. , Clarke, J. and Duque, D. (2014) A Validated Questionnaire for Quantifying Skin Oiliness. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 4, 78-84. doi: 10.4236/jcdsa.2014.42012.
- Rizer, R. L. (1999). Oily skin: claim support strategies. In Cosmetics (pp. 81-91). Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg.
- Arbuckle, R., Atkinson, M.J., Clark, M. et al. Patient experiences with oily skin: The qualitative development of content for two new patient reported outcome questionnaires. Health Qual Life Outcomes 6, 80 (2008). https://doi.org/10.1186/1477-7525-6-80
- Segot-Chicq, E., Compan-Zaouati, D., Wolkenstein, P., Consoli, S., Rodary, C., Delvigne, V., Guillou, V. and Poli, F. (2007), Development and validation of a questionnaire to evaluate how a cosmetic product for oily skin is able to improve well-being in women. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 21: 1181-1186. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-3083.2007.02193.x
- Draelos ZD. The effect of a daily facial cleanser for normal to oily skin on the skin barrier of subjects with acne. Cutis. 2006 Jul;78(1 Suppl):34-40. PMID: 16910029.
- Neill US. Skin care in the aging female: myths and truths. J Clin Invest. 2012 Feb;122(2):473-7. doi: 10.1172/JCI61978. Epub 2012 Feb 1. PMID: 22293186; PMCID: PMC3266803.
- Endly DC, Miller RA. Oily Skin: A review of Treatment Options. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2017 Aug;10(8):49-55. Epub 2017 Aug 1. PMID: 28979664; PMCID: PMC5605215.
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